When to Plant Fall Potatoes in Zone 9 Central Texas

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So… potatoes. You probably eat them all the time — mashed, roasted, fried into crispy perfection — but maybe you’ve never actually grown them. I get it. They seem mysterious because they do all their magic underground. My first attempt at growing potatoes was actually few years ago. In my French Cajun family we ate A LOT of rice, never grew potatoes and I always thought of these round beauties as a midwest food. I was leery how they would turn out because out of sight, out of mind.

But here’s the thing: growing potatoes in Central Texas in the fall isn’t just possible — it’s one of the most satisfying gardening projects you can take on. And no, I learned in my first effort you don’t have to be some potato-growing wizard to get it right. You just need a little know-how, a sunny spot, and the willingness to get your hands dirty.

Let’s break it down so you can get planting without falling into the “Googling yourself into a panic” trap.

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Why Fall Works for Potatoes in Central Texas

Here in Zone 9, summer is basically an oven — not ideal for tender young potato plants. But fall? Fall is our sweet spot. Planting in August or early September gives your potatoes time to grow before the first frost. When my northern west coast friend are harvesting their potatoes, I know it’s time for me to start the growing process and Fall is one of the better times to grow here in our CTX area.

• Spring planting window: Mid-February to mid-March (save this for later)

• Fall planting window: Aim to plant by early September to beat cold snaps

• Bonus: Fall potatoes often have fewer pest problems than spring crops
  

Think of fall potatoes as the garden’s last hurrah before winter.

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Best Potato Varieties for Zone 9

You could just plant whatever you find in the grocery store — but those spuds have usually been treated with sprout inhibitors, which is gardening code for “good luck getting anything to grow.” But I willl say that most fall seasons I end up having to plant organic grocery store spuds in a pinch because the seed potatoes are impossible to find in stock after August. For spring planting, you can order in advance from most companies.

Instead, buy certified seed potatoes from a nursery or reputable supplier. Here are a few local rockstars:

• Red LaSoda – Big yields, heat tolerant, disease resistant

• Yukon Gold – Buttery flavor, all-purpose in the kitchen

• Kennebec – Easy grower, great flavor, stores well

• Huckleberry Gold – Gorgeous purple skin, lower glycemic index

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Want more detailed information to help you stay on track for ordering things like garlic and knowing the best time to plant your crops?

Check out our 12 Month Central Texas Growing Guide here.

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Where to Plant Potatoes

You’ve got options — just remember, wherever you plant, they’ll be there a while.

1. Raised Beds – Great drainage, easy access, but you’ll dedicate the whole space for the season. I like to consider a separate raised bed like this for things like potatoes, beets, etc.
   

2. Containers or Grow Bags – My personal favorite for fall. Easy to move, control soil quality, and dump out at harvest. Look for at least 18” deep. I’m trying these fun potato grow bags this year.
   

3. In-Ground Beds – Works fine if you have loose, amended soil (spoiler: most of our Texas clay needs work first). This is my favorite option for Sweet Potatoes. I’ll be releasing a spring post on how to grow sweet potatoes soon.
   

PRO TIP: Don’t use heavy garden soil in containers — you’ll end up with soggy, sad potatoes.

Soil Prep: The Foundation of Happy Spuds

Potatoes hate wet feet (aka waterlogged soil), so drainage is everything.

For raised beds & in-ground:

• Mix compost + sandy loam + coarse sand

• Aim for a pH around 5.8–6.5

• Remove rocks and big clumps — potatoes like smooth sailing underground

For containers:

• Use a high-quality potting mix with compost

• Skip garden dirt — it compacts too much

I place my potatoes to chit in an area with indirect light and airflow. A covered porch or breezeway works well.

I cover my potatoes with a cooling rack during this process to keep out the critters.

Chitting & Cutting: No, It’s Not a Curse Word

Let’s translate: chitting is just pre-sprouting your potatoes before planting.

Here’s how to do it without overthinking:

1. Lay your seed potatoes out in a single layer in a warm, bright spot (indirect light).

2. Wait for short, sturdy sprouts to appear (¾–1” long).

3. If potatoes are large, cut them into chunks with 1–2 sprouts each. Leave small ones whole.

4. Let cut pieces air-dry for a day or two so the edges callous over.
   

FALL PLANTING HACK: If it’s hot out, plant whole small potatoes to avoid rot.

New sprouts emerging

Potatoes after some are cut and hardened over. Once cut wait for 2-3 days and the potatoes should be ready to plant.

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How to Plant Potatoes (Fall Edition)

1. Dig a trench or planting hole about 4–6” deep if planting in ground or in a raised bed.
   

2. Place the potato piece sprout side up.
   

3. Space 10–12” apart for bigger potatoes, closer for baby potatoes.
   

4. Cover with 2–3” of soil (you’ll add more later when hilling).
   

5. Water deeply to settle them in.

Plant 4-6” deep with sprout facing up.

Space 10-12” apart and if potato is small can plant closer together.

Red Potato Sprouts Emerging after 1 week

The Hilling Process has begun; as the potato grows continually cover the base leaves.

Quick Recap for the Over-eager Gardener

• Buy seed potatoes (only use ORGANIC grocery store spuds if your local farm shares, nurseries or feed stores are out for Fall)

• Plant by early September in Zone 9 (This year I’m pushing the planting window a bit. Because I planted in grow bags I know that I can move them to my grow lights indoors or in the garage if needed. Supposedly 2025 winter will be ‘mild’.

• Choose loose, well-draining soil

• Pre-sprout (chit) for a head start in end of July or August. Plan for 2-3 weeks for the whole process.

• Keep soil moist, but not soggy

• Hill, hill, hill: Continue to push the dirt to the base leaves of the plant so it can start producing. I will discuss this in the next article, How to Care for Potatoes After Planting

Fall Potato Planting Tips for Central Texas and Zone 9 Gardens

Growing potatoes in the fall heat of Central Texas comes with its own set of challenges—mainly the ticking clock between the last summer scorch and the first cold snap (we never know what will happen in Texas). If you want a successful harvest, here’s what you need to know to make fall potatoes work in warm-climate gardens like ours.

1. Know Your First Frost Date and Count Backward

   Start by looking up your average first frost date. In most parts of Central Texas (Zone 8b/9a), that’s usually around mid-November. Then count backward 60 to 75 days to determine your planting window. That puts your ideal planting time in late August through mid-September. Any later, and your potatoes might not have enough time to mature before a frost hits. If you're in a warmer microclimate or Zone 9b, you may have a bit more wiggle room, but don’t wait too long.

2. Choose Early-Maturing Potato Varieties for Fall Success

   In the fall, long-season varieties like Russets are a gamble. You want early-maturing types that can produce harvestable tubers in 60 to 75 days. Look for potatoes specifically labeled as “early varieties,” or check the seed packet for maturity timelines. Reliable fall growers for Central Texas include Dark Red Norland, Red LaSoda, and Yukon Gem. These varieties don’t mind the heat and can deliver a strong harvest before winter rolls in. Even if you're harvesting them young as new potatoes, you'll get creamy, tender results.

3. Use Whole Seed Potatoes to Avoid Rot in Warm Soil

   During spring, it's common to cut larger seed potatoes into chunks before planting. But in the fall, it’s smarter to skip that step. Plant small, whole seed potatoes instead. Warm soil combined with extra cut surfaces increases the risk of rot. Whole potatoes are more resilient, and as long as they have at least a couple of eyes, they’ll do just fine in the ground.

4. Harvest Before a Hard Frost Hits

   Ideally, you’ll wait until the plants yellow and die back before harvesting—that’s when the skins have thickened and the tubers are ready to store. But if a hard frost is in the forecast, go ahead and dig them up early. You may end up with a batch of smaller potatoes, but they’re perfectly edible and often even more flavorful when harvested young. Just handle them gently and plan to use them sooner rather than later, as they won’t store as long as fully mature tubers.

Once they’re in the ground, we’ll cover exactly how to keep them happy until harvest — watering schedules, hilling (and why it matters), and how to know when they’re ready.

If you want a step-by-step seasonal plan for your whole garden (not just potatoes), that’s exactly what I do in my garden design and coaching sessions. We’ll map out where everything goes, when to plant, and how to keep it alive in our Texas climate.

First step after sprouting is to cut the larger potatoes into pieces that contain sprouts and then let them harden over the next few days before planting.

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